Highlights from Fashion Week!
Monique Lhuillier |
Monique Lhuillier described her fall mood as “more sultry,” which explained the deeper color palette. There were metallic pailettes, sequins, miles of organza, and fine embroidery |
Jason Wu |
Jason Wu’s fall collection was a response to his childhood in Taiwan, both literally and figuratively in China’s shadow. Models entered in a cloud of smoke through large, lacquered red doors reminiscent of the Forbidden City. There were Mao jackets, black silk embroidered with flowers, military-green wool caps, high-slit black velvet gowns, and gold brocades. But the collection was as reminiscent of old Hollywood as it was of China—and, as his show notes explained, was inspired by a “1940’s Hollywood version of Chinese glamour, exemplified by Marlene Dietrich in Shanghai Express.” |
Prabal Gurung |
When guests (including Zoe Saldana) filed into Prabal Gurung’s show, they would never have guessed that they were about to go to hell and back. Inspired by the spiritual journey between heaven and hell, the young Nepalese designer unveiled a varied collection that began with a string of black capes, furs, leathers, and tailored pants (and Philip Treacy visor hats), passed through a blue period with suits of futuristic prints, and finished in an explosion of white and gold, with ruffles and beads. |
Diane von Furstenberg |
Diane von Furstenberg called her fall 2012 collection “Rendez-Vous,” explaining in the show notes that a “Rendez-Vous is a meeting with suspense and expectation.” And with the collection that she presented with Yvan Mispelaere, expectations most certainly were met. There was a standout red kimono dress with opera gloves, tailored velvet jackets, a patchwork top covered in black and white handprints, and then a dramatic rosy red halter dress for evening, a seafoam strapless dress that looked like a wave was unfurling on the runway as the model walked. This being DVF, the 48-piece collection delivered its fair share of strong color and bold prints, such as a frosted-lime paisley jacquard, a jigsaw black georgette blouse and pant, and a printed-dot panel skirt. As von Furstenberg explained, her woman next fall is “glamorous at a moment’s notice, she is alive with anticipation.” |
Gisele Bundchen at Alexander Wang |
Alexander Wang’s shows at Pier 94 on the Hudson River have an industrial feel as soon as you walk in. Dim fluorescent lighting, slate-colored floors, and great slabs of mirror gave the room an unsettling feel as guests (who included the South African rap group Die Antwoord) began to fill the bleachers. The collection was heavy on outerwear, with stiff leathers and tweeds in a lacquered finish. A series of models—Including Karolina Kurkova, Shalom Harlow, Carmen Kass, and Gisele Bundchen—walked the runway and each froze in front of a mirror before the lights went out. |
Victoria Beckham |
At Victoria Beckham, things were short and to the point. Her 22-look collection consisted exclusively of coats and dresses—almost all with a pencil silhouette. There were shocks of color, and color-blocked fabrics, but the overall mood of the collection was defiantly sporty. “I’m living and breathing sport having so many boys in the house,” Beckham told WWD of her inspiration. |